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Karla Rosenbusch
is the managing editor
of Jewelry Making Daily
and associate editor of
Lapidary Journal
Jewelry Artist.
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There is good news for those who find traditional stones such as diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires (also known as "the Big Four") out of reach. There is an incredible variety of "alternative" gems that can be made into spectacular jewelry at affordable price points.
And for any jewelry maker, the perfect alternative stone needs the perfect stone setting. A good setting both protects and enhances the stone, especially when it is an integral part of the design. Jewelry Making Daily's free eBook, 7 Ways to Set Stones: Bezel Setting and Other Stone Setting Techniques, is a must-have reference, whether you're an experienced stone setter or planning to experiment with faceted stone setting, cabochon setting, or any kind of bezel making for the first time.
One of the most interesting--and fun--things about working with different alternative stones is learning the wasys in which they are all unique. Each stone requires its own set of adjustments to the setting process, and each one brings special characteristics to your finished jewelry.
Earthen Beauty
There is a variety of "natural" stones that can substitute for upper-end gemstones. There are almost too many variations of jasper and agate to count, and many of those have incredible "landscape" qualities. One of the most beautiful is Royal Sahara Jasper from northern Africa. Cabochons of this spectacular stone can be
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| Helen Drigg's freeform Royal Sahara Jasper in a pendant setting. Photo by Jim Lawson. |
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made into very special and unique jewelry. Helen Driggs, Managing Editor of
Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist, designed and fabricated a bezel for a Royal Sahara Jasper cabochon setting, creating one of my all-time favorite pieces of jewelry.
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A labradorite pendant in a sterling silver setting by John Bajoras of Village Silversmith. Photo by Jim Lawson. |
Another amazing--and relatively inexpensive--stone is labradorite from Canada. With its iridescence and almost oily appearance, labradorite and its Finnish cousin spectrolite are unusual phenomenon stones that would make any jewelry artist swoon. Personally, I like to see labradorite in rather plain bezel settings which don't conflict with the beauty of the stones.
I've always been a fan of granite-like stones like rhodonite and unakite. One unusual example of these alternative stones is astorite, named for millionaire John Jacob Astor. In the May 2010 issue of Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist, Lexi Erickson showed how to set this unusual stone in a metalwork bezel fabricated specifically for a square-cut stone.
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| Zircon rings from Color First in traditional diamond settings. Photo by Jim Lawson. |
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Sparkly Substitutes
If earthen stones just don't appeal to you and you want your jewelry to have the look of traditional gems, there are still many "substitute" options. In fact, these options are quite fashionable today. For instance, you are just as likely see garnets on the red carpet as you are to see rubies. And not all the "diamonds" you see on celebrities are diamonds. They are very possibly zircon. Colorless and champagne zircon is a great alternative to diamonds, although zircon is also available in several other colors that can easily stand in for sapphires, rubies, or any number of gems. And with prices as low as $40 per carat, it's much more affordable! Zircon often looks its best in traditional, elaborate diamond settings where it can be shown off like its diamond "twin."
Get the Right Setting
Whether you decide to use alternative stones or stick with traditional gems for your jewelry designs, the right setting is essential. And 7 Ways to Set Stones: Bezel Setting and Other Stone Setting Techniques will help you create gemstone settings for your choice of stones. Learn from experts how to create the proper setting to show off and enhance the beauty of your stones. Not only will you get step-by-step instructions on fabricating your settings, but you'll also get terrific tips on the tools, materials, and techniques you'll need to design your own settings. This terrific eBook is free to Jewelry Making Daily members, so download yours today! And make sure to forward the link to your friends who might want to try their hands at stone setting. Don't forget to post your creations to our Members Gallery, too. We want to see your work