Screw, Rivet, Tab, or Stitch?
by Helen Driggs
I love soldering just as much as I love cold connection jewelry making. Luckily, I’ve got the equipment and knowledge to go either way when it comes to jewelry construction. Depending on what kind of work I am making, I can choose a join that not only does the job, but has the right aesthetic for the piece.
Sometimes, a clean, unobtrusive soldered join is just what the doctor ordered. Other times, I like featuring how a piece is put together, so I’ll use a rivet or other connection to make the construction method blatantly obvious. There are also times when a rivet or screw is held deeply and invisibly in my work, or the material I’ve chosen precludes soldering, and yet other times I like to combine soldering with cold connections. Again, I try to match the connection method with the idea behind the work so there is harmony in the design.
Screws, Nuts, and Bolts
Threaded connections are the most forgiving of the cold connections for jewelry making. All you have to do is drill an appropriate sized hole, insert the hardware, and tighten the nuts and screws or bolts. There are several types of commercially manufactured micro hardware available in several metals.
I prefer brass because I can also solder the flat or hex head of a nut to another piece of metal, and then cold join that assembly after drilling some holes and threading on nuts.
You can also make a “nut” out of anything–if you use a tap on the inside of the drilled hole to create screw threads. Just make sure the thread count is the same on the screw or bolt and the tap you use to cut the threads.
Tube and Wire Rivets
To me, the tube rivet is the easiest of all cold connection jewelry making techniques. All you need to do to rivet jewelry is drill the correct size hole, flare the tube ends and planish them down level with the piece. You can also use brass “eyelets” from the craft store as tube rivets.
Wire rivets are a bit harder, because you have to create a rivet “head” and wire is notoriously hard to hold on to. I have a favorite pair of toothed pliers I bought at Home Depot just for making wire rivets.
Tabs are an often overlooked cold connection jewelry technique. Think of paper dolls-those little rectangles of paper that you fold around a sleeve or shoulder are tabs, and they work great in metal, too.
Tabs can also be curved. Just saw them out of the same sheet of metal as the rest of the piece.
Tabs can extend up, fold inside, be pressed flush, be decorative and can also be combined with other cold joins like rivets. They can also function as prongs to hold flat-backed objects or stones to a base plate.
You can sew metal parts together with wire, thin sheet, fiber, rubber, plastic, leather or just about any other material. The most important thing to remember with stitches is to clean-finish the holes to remove any rough areas, sharp edges or burrs, especially if you are using fiber or another material that will be weakened by friction.
And Don’t Forget Folds
A folded join can bring together two sections of metal in a no-solder way. Folds can also be riveted closed or combined in millions of ways. Combinations of micro and macro folds offer literally thousands of ways to hold together metal edges by tension alone.
To learn more about cold connection jewelry making, check out Susan Lenart Kazmer’s DVD, Metalwork: Making Cold Connections with Rivets or my DVD, Metalsmith Essentials: Riveting & Cold Connections. They are both great ways to learn riveting and other cold connection jewelry making. You can also download the free Multi-Metal Cold Connected Bracelet project here on Jewelry Making Daily.
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