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Don’t miss this essential jewelry making reference on stone setting techniques.
Beyond the commercial diamond settings and gemstone ring settings, there are tons of creative ways to incorporate gem setting into your jewelry designs. Download this free eBook on stone setting techniques today to master the fabrication of a jewelry bezel, discover basic and advanced cabochon settings, and enhance your creations with original faceted gemstone settings. Start with the basics and allow yourself to get away from prongs and the ubiquitous bezel to fully enhance your jewelry designs.
How to Set a Stone in a Bezel for Beginners
By Tom & Kay Benham
For this piece, the artists had to find a stone setting for their minimal opal and lapsis intarsia. They decided that a simple jewelry bezel would make the perfect frame. Bezel making and bezel setting are essential jewelry making skills. Follow these instructions with detailed illustrations and walk through every step of a basic bezel setting, from preparing the bezel wire to soldering, shaping on a bezel mandrel, assembling the back plate, placing the stone in the bezel, and polishing.
How to Make an Asymmetrical Bezel
By William Fretz
Learn how to hammer form a stone setting for an unusual stone. When a stone is an unusual shape, standard jewelry bezel mandrels can’t be used for fabrication. There are many different ways of fabricating bezels and in this demo, the artist explores three main types. First, is the large symmetrical oval cab shape; in this case a cameo with an open backed bezel. The second bezel is a freeform stone with a solid back. The third type is a faceted stone with sharp corners and flared curved sides. Using miniature smithing stakes, unusual bezel shapes are easy to fabricate with a minimal amount of effort. There are variations to the process and these three stones will require different stone setting techniques and tools. The first example covers all of the basics and the following two stones show the variations that make this group of techniques very versatile.
How to Set a Stone without a Bezel
By Helen Driggs
Try your hand at other stone settings. Practicing different ways of setting stones can be very difficult. You will need to start with familiarizing yourself with all of the specialized tools. Once your stone setting toolbox is set up, if you’re committed to really learning how to set stones, the experts suggest you purchase a range of inexpensive stones in different shapes and sizes and invest the time in regular daily practice. Download this eBook and follow the diagrams of the basic types of non-bezel settings, with the order of steps. Start by mastering the basics of creating a bead setting, a pavé setting, a gypsy setting, a channel setting, a tube setting, until you feel comfortable to add modifications to the basic construction of these settings and customize your own designs.
Tube Setting: This stone setting technique is relatively easy, and the most important thing to master is keeping the setting bur perpendicular to the tubing walls so the table of the stone remains level.
Gypsy Setting: The gypsy setting positions the stone’s table flush with the surface of the surrounding metal, giving the appearance of a stone suspended in the metal, as if it were cast in place. The most important thing with a gypsy setting is a tight fit of stone to metal.
Crown or Coronet Setting: Usually, this stone setting is made from a tapered cone, so mastering the fabrication of a cone is the first step. Prong setting is based on this construction method. Once you understand the math, fabricating this gem setting is relatively simple.
How to Set an Irregular Cabochon
By Noël Yovovich
How do you set a stone for a piece of jewelry? If it’s a cabochon, usually it goes in a bezel. Faceted stones more often get prongs. But there are many shapes, types, and styles of stones, and some stones simply don’t lend themselves to the traditional solutions. One benefit of creating things by hand is that you get to do them as you choose. The design theme of this pin is balance rather than symmetry, so the background is an irregular shape that harmonizes with the irregular stone. A tube setting for the faceted gem is more in keeping with the concentric circles that dot the cab than a prong setting would be, and the small touch of gold adds richness.
Fuse Silver Wire to Make a Stone Mounted Ring
By Sam Patania
This ring is made with fused silver wires. Create a simpler version for an unusual everyday ring by eliminating the stones and metallic balls, or using fewer stones and premade balls. Patania used Argentium exclusively in this piece due to its torch weldability. Argentium makes engineering on the fly very forgiving. You don’t have to plan the soldering order or worry that a stone mount will come off during another soldering operation.
Go beyond commercial diamond settings and learn everything about bezel setting and other stone setting techniques yourself in this free eBook.
You’ll find this illustrated eBook a valuable reference if you’re new to setting stones; and full of inspiration and new ideas even if you’ve already mastered the art. From simple bezel setting to techniques for setting faceted stones and setting gemstones with unusual shapes, we have you covered.