Glossary

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  • What is adamantine luster? Gems are described as having adamantine lustre, or luster, when their refractive index is 1.9 or higher. Such gems are translucent or transparent, such as diamonds. Cubic zirconia's high refractive index makes it an adamantine
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  • Applique metal jewelry definition In the context of jewelry, applique is the laying of one layer of metal upon another to produce dimension and design. It's similar to the applique definition most people are familiar with for quilting, except that
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  • Pendant bail definition A jewelry bail is simply the holder for the top of a pendant. How to make pendant bails For more inspiration, follow Jewelry Making Daily's Pendant Designs board on Pinterest. See also: Artisan Bails: Handmade Findings to Enhance
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  • What are baroque pearls? Any pearl of irregular shape. See also: The Pearl Issue
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  • What is beadwire? Beadwire - or beading wire, as it is often called - is simply a fine nylon-coated kind of wire designed for beading. For more inspiration, follow Jewelry Making Daily's Jewelry Making Tools & Supplies board on Pinterest. See
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  • What is a bezel? A bezel is a shape made of flat wire to hold the stone in place in a piece of jewelry. Bezel setting involves soldering very thin strips of metal in the precise outline of the stone to a backing; sometimes there is no backing, only a
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  • What is a bezel pusher? A tool with a blunt end for pushing prongs over stones. How to use bezel pushers For more inspiration, follow Jewelry Making Daily's Gemstone Jewelry board on Pinterest. See also: Bezel stone setting guide
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  • Cable chain definition Simple chain with interlocking identical links in a pattern of vertical links connected by horizontal links. These jump rings are attached to a plain cable chain.
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  • Channel work definition In jewelry, channel refers to inlay work in which cells of rectangular wire are placed in a pattern on a metal surface, filled with enamel, and fired. This metal piece has inlay channels and is ready for the stones to be set. For
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  • Cloisonné enameling definition Cells of rectangular wire are placed in a pattern on a metal surface, filled with enamel, and fired. The colorful top half of this handmade pendant uses cloisonne. For more inspiration, follow Jewelry Making Daily's
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  • Setting with the stone in a metal collar.
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  • What is cuttlebone casting? Carving patterns in cuttlebone for direct casting.
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  • Metal dapping definition Also known as sinking, doming or dishing, metal dapping is forming metal by pounding and stretching it into a hemispherical die. The art requires dapping punches, which are placed on top of the metal and hit with a hammer, and
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  • What is dopping? Dopping is simply the way that a lapidary holds a cabochon while cutting. It requires equipment including dop wax, a special wax used to hold rough gem materials to the dop stick. This stick, which could be as simple as a piece of doweling
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  • What is a draw plate? A jewelry drawplate is a steel or wooden plate with graduated, tapering holes, used to reduce the diameter of precious metal wire by drawing through the plate from the larger side to the smaller one. A drawplate is used to change
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  • What are ear wires? Also known as earwires, fish hooks, and shepherd hooks, ear wires are another term for the standard hooks seen on dangle earrings. Shepherd hooks are easy to make yourself as this ear wires tutorial demonstrates. How to make shepherd
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  • What is filigree jewelry? Filigree refers to spiral wire units forming lacy designs in flat metal framework. For more inspiration, follow Jewelry Making Daily's Wire Jewelry Making board on Pinterest. See also: Make Easy Filigree Jewelry with Patterned
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  • What is a flexshaft tool? A motorized hand-held piece of lapidary equipment with variable speed, which can hold a variety of cutting, grinding, and polishing tools, especially for carving. They must be fitted with an air and water supply to keep the dust
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  • Gypsy setting definition A wide-domed ring with a flush set stone which continues the curve of the dome. Gypsy setting tutorial 1. Drill a pilot hole in the metal. 2. Use a cylinder or setting bur to carve a seat with accuracy and care. It must fit the
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  • What is jeweler's rouge? Rouge refers to various iron oxide powders used for polishing and final finishing. Different colors of rouge are used for different metals: red for gold, silver, brass, copper; green for white gold, platinum, or nickel; black
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  • A Japanese method of texturing metal to resemble wood grain.
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  • Preliminary step in shaping a cabochon preform by breaking off small bits with nippers or pliers.
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  • Solder pallions definition Pallions are merely small squares of solder that come in various sizes. Several dozen medium-sized pallions lie on the back of this piece of metal, ready to be soldered. How to use solder pallions For more inspiration, follow
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  • Patina definition Surface appearance of naturally or artificially aged metal, especially copper, brass, or silver. Patina comes in all sorts of organic patterns and shades, and you can even make your own patina designs incorporating the effect. Patina
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  • Jewelry pickle definition In jewelry pickle is a liquid or dry mild acid used to remove surface oxidation from jewelry after soldering. It is held in a pickle pot: a small, electrically heated, covered pot used to heat and hold pickle, since it is best
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  • What is planishing? To planish is to hammer metal on a metal stake with a special hammer to remove irregularities. Planishing hammers have flat or convex faces, to smooth metal that has been worked by other hammers or to harden metal. It can texture and
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  • What is repousse and chasing? Repoussé and chasing are nearly interchangeable terms — both are types of shallow forming that utilize steel punches to push metal up or down in a bed of pitch. The flat metal is stretched from a flat plane into
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  • What is reticulated silver? Silver that is textured into a deeply ridged surface by the use of a torch. This can be done with other kinds of metals, but it is most common with special reticulation silver. Sterling silver may be used to achieve the same
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  • What is a ring mandrel? Also called ring sticks, ring mandrels are round, tapered steel sticks for forming rings. They usually have marks on them to enable jewelers to determine the size of a ring. Ring mandrels and sticks may be used both for making
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  • What is a rolling mill? Think of a rolling mill as a pasta maker, but for metal. It's a mill with steel rollers to alter the gauge of flat metal or wire, such as reducing thickness of metal or flattening wire. The press is small and allows jewelers
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  • What are rondelle beads? Rondelles are flat disc-shaped beads often used between round beads in necklaces. They are often polished metal, but may be made from other materials too. Strings of rondelle beads may come in many styles, like these turquoise
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  • What is a rotary tumbler? A rotary tumbler is a machine which finishes gem materials when charged with appropriate grits and rolled over and over by an electric motor. It is used for polishing by compacting the metal and burnishing it at the same time
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  • What is sgraffito enameling? An enamel technique with a design scribed through to expose previously fired layers. These enameled pendants were created using sharp objects such as awls. Sgraffito enamel jewelry tutorial For more inspiration, follow Jewelry
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  • Used to dop sensitive stones or to make abrasive tools.
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  • What are soldering blocks? Soldering is done on a fire-proof block such as charcoal, magnesia, Solderite, fire brick, or ceramic. These bricks are also useful for fusing with micro torches . The solder block in this jewelry soldering tutorial is made
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  • What are spring ring clasps? Spring rings are ring-shaped jewelry clasps with springs in the tube. They are very common in cheap jewelry, and can be acquired as findings for as little as 6 cents each. On the left hand side is a spring-ring clasp, and
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  • Thrumming jewelry definition In jewelry thrumming is simply buffing inaccessible areas with a string or cord. This can be done with any kind of thread or cloth, but crocus cloth from automotive shops does an especially good job.
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  • A prong setting for a faceted stone mounted on top of the ring shank, allowing more light.
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  • Round wax wires of different gauges, which can be twisted and bent into designs for wax jewelry models.
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